Opinion: The Sustainable Struggle of Sneakers and Sportswear

Despite the growing focus on sustainability in the fashion industry, sneakers and sportswear continue to fall behind. While many other sectors have made significant strides in becoming more eco-friendly, these popular categories of clothing and footwear seem to be out of step with the sustainability movement.

One of the main reasons for this lag is the reliance on synthetic materials in the production of sneakers and sportswear. These materials, such as polyester and nylon, are derived from non-renewable resources like petroleum. Not only does their production contribute to carbon emissions, but they also take hundreds of years to decompose, leading to a significant environmental impact.

Another issue is the fast fashion model that dominates the sneaker and sportswear industry. With constant releases of new collections and limited-edition items, consumers are encouraged to buy more and discard items quickly. This “buy and toss” mentality creates a cycle of waste and contributes to the growing problem of textile landfill.

Furthermore, the labor conditions within the supply chains of these industries often come under scrutiny. Many sneakers and sportswear brands outsource their production to countries with lower labor costs, where workers may face poor working conditions and low wages. These practices not only harm the workers but also hinder progress towards sustainable and ethical production.

While some brands have taken steps towards sustainability, such as using recycled materials or implementing fair labor practices, these efforts are often overshadowed by the industry’s overall lack of progress. More needs to be done to push for innovation and change within the sector.

To address these challenges, the industry must prioritize the development of sustainable materials for sneakers and sportswear. Research and investment should be directed towards finding alternatives to synthetic materials that are both eco-friendly and durable. Additionally, brands must adopt circular economy principles, focusing on product longevity, repairability, and recycling initiatives to reduce waste.

Consumer behavior also plays a crucial role in driving change. By supporting brands that prioritize sustainability and opting for quality over quantity, consumers can send a clear message to the industry that sustainability matters. Additionally, demanding transparency and accountability from brands regarding their supply chains can help create a more ethical and sustainable industry.

In conclusion, the sneaker and sportswear industry must catch up with the sustainability movement. By addressing the reliance on synthetic materials, implementing circular economy principles, and improving labor conditions within their supply chains, these industries can make significant progress towards a more sustainable future. It’s time for sneakers and sportswear to step up and join the sustainable revolution.

The global sports and athleisure apparel industry faces significant challenges when it comes to achieving circular fashion. With the production of almost 24 billion pairs of shoes each year, only a small percentage, estimated to be around 5 percent, are recycled. This means that a large number of sneakers, runners, and other sports apparel end up in landfills, creating sustainability problems for these markets.

The fashion industry as a whole is under pressure to transition from a linear take-make-waste system to a circular model, where products are designed to be used more, made to be recycled, and constructed from safe and renewable resources. However, the sports and athleisure apparel sector faces unique challenges due to its reliance on fossil fuel-based materials and the large quantities of goods being produced.

Footwear, in particular, poses challenges for recycling and repair due to its complex materials and construction. Unlike a simple T-shirt made of a single material, sneakers and running shoes can be made up of as many as 65 different materials and components, many of which are bonded with adhesives, making disassembly for recycling difficult. Additionally, hygiene concerns related to clothing in close contact with the skin and sweat can deter reuse.

While the footwear industry is showing commitment to progressing towards a circular economy, there is a lack of consistency and transparency in the market. Consumers interested in buying sustainable athletic shoes often encounter confusing contradictions. There are several changes that could be implemented to make meaningful progress towards circularity.

One of the key challenges is the reliance on fossil fuel-based and harmful synthetic materials in sports and athleisure wear, such as polyester, nylon, elastane, EVA, polyurethane, and rubber. These materials complicate recycling efforts, and the persistence of microfiber and microplastic pollution remains a concern. Some sustainable shoes incorporate organic or recycled materials, but these claims are often unsubstantiated, and the products rarely include repair or end-of-life solutions.

Material innovation is needed to address these challenges. Bio-based alternatives like mushroom leather, pineapple leather, and cactus leather show promise in eliminating plastics from footwear production. However, these materials are still developing, and the financial cost and potential compromise on performance pose challenges for consumers and brands. Additionally, the mixing of bio leather with fossil-fuel based materials undermines biodegradability and recycling efforts.

Recycling, repair, refurbishment, and remanufacture are crucial strategies for achieving circularity in the sports and athleisure apparel industry. Takeback schemes and initiatives like Nike Grind, Save Our Soles, and FastFeetGrinded, where materials and end-of-life shoes are ground up and repurposed, provide solutions, but mostly involve downcycling with limited options for future recycling. Prolonging the life of products through care and repair is challenging for high-tech footwear due to performance requirements and complex construction.

Designing for assembly and disassembly is crucial for footwear reuse, repair, refurbishment, and recyclability. Simplifying design, reducing and standardizing parts and materials, glue-less joining, and designing modular products are principles that can facilitate circular manufacturing. Additive manufacturing (3-D printing) also holds potential for reducing waste and enabling reuse and repair.

Collaboration and accountability are key to achieving meaningful progress towards circularity. Collaboration among brands and stakeholders, including suppliers, government, academia, and entrepreneurs, is necessary to overcome challenges and advance sustainability initiatives. Initiatives like the Footwear Collective and Seamless Clothing Stewardship Scheme are crucial for building a circular infrastructure, but significant funding is needed. Currently, most initiatives involving tariffs and funding are voluntary.

Despite the challenges, there are incentives for brands to engage willingly in circular business models. Authentic participation in sustainability initiatives can generate consumer engagement and drive sales. Consumers can play a pivotal role in the shift towards circularity by choosing brands that prioritize sustainability and transparency. Resources like Good on You and the Ethical Fashion Guide can help consumers make informed choices.

Ultimately, achieving sustainability in the sports and athleisure apparel industry requires collaboration and accountability from industry, consumers, and governments. While progress is being made, corporate secrecy and competitiveness, intellectual property battles, and a lack of short-term return on investment pose significant challenges. However, with collective efforts and the support of consumers, meaningful progress towards circularity is possible.